Kom Ombo and Edfu from Aswan: what to expect

Kom Ombo and Edfu are two of the best temples between Aswan and Luxor, and many Nile cruises stop at both. If you are not on a cruise, or your boat skips them, this day trip lets you see them from Aswan by road.

The day is private and unhurried, with a car, driver and Egyptologist guide.

The drive

You leave Aswan around seven. The road runs north along the Nile through sugar-cane fields, villages and palm groves. Kom Ombo is about an hour away, and Edfu is another hour or so beyond.

Kom Ombo

Kom Ombo is unusual because it is a double temple. One half is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god, and the other to Horus. Everything is doubled: two entrances, two halls and two sanctuaries, down the central axis.

Next to the temple, the Crocodile Museum displays mummified crocodiles found in the area. It is a short stop, but it explains why Sobek mattered along this stretch of the river. The temple stands on a rise above the river, and the view is lovely.

Edfu

The Temple of Horus at Edfu was built during the Ptolemaic period and is the best-preserved major temple in Egypt. The huge pylon, the open court and the sanctuary are largely intact, and the walls are covered with reliefs.

Your guide will take you through the story shown on the walls, including the myth of Horus and Seth. It is one of the best places in Egypt to understand how a temple worked as a whole.

• Pick-up from your Aswan hotel or cruise boat
• About 1 hour to Kom Ombo
• Double temple and Crocodile Museum
• About 1 to 1.5 hours to Edfu
• Temple of Horus, lunch, and the drive back

Is it for you?

This is a good day for temple lovers. It involves about four hours in the car, so it is less suitable for small children or anyone who dislikes long rides. If you will be on a Nile cruise that visits these temples anyway, choose something else, such as Philae or Kalabsha.

Lunch is at a local restaurant and bottled water is included. Entrance tickets for both temples are covered.

What to look for inside

At Kom Ombo, look for the doubled doorways and the carvings of Sobek with a crocodile head. A well-known relief shows a set of surgical instruments, which has made the temple a favorite of those who like the history of medicine.

At Edfu, the walls are covered with scenes of the god Horus and his battle with Seth. A staircase leads to the roof, and corridors run around the sanctuary. Because so much is intact, you can follow how priests moved through the building.

Take your time at both, and ask your guide to read the reliefs aloud. It turns a walk through stone halls into a story.

Photographs are usually permitted, but rules can change. Your guide will tell you what is allowed on the day.

Carry a little cash for tips and drinks, a hat and a light scarf for the sun. The coach-free, private format means you can start early and beat most of the crowds at both temples.

If you prefer a shorter outing, consider the Kalabsha and Nubian Museum half day instead.