Alexandria's food is shaped by the sea and by a long history of mixed communities. Greek, Italian and Levantine influences have all left marks, but the dishes people queue for are simple and local. Most of the best meals cost little and are eaten standing up.
This guide runs through the dishes worth looking for, in roughly the order a good evening unfolds. You can try them on your own, but a guide helps with choosing the right place and with ordering.
Ful, falafel and pickles
Ful medames, slow-cooked fava beans with oil and spices, is Egypt's breakfast. In Alexandria it comes with a dash of cumin, lemon and fresh bread. Falafel, here called ta'ameya, is made from fava beans rather than chickpeas, so it is green inside and light in texture.
Pickled vegetables and salad come alongside. The best counters have been serving the same menu for decades. The food walk starts at one of these.
Liver and sausage sandwiches
Alexandrian liver is a local specialty. Thin strips of liver are fried with garlic, peppers and spices, then stuffed into bread. Sausage sandwiches are made the same way. They are rich, hot and best eaten right away.
Street stalls that sell them often have a crowd. If you are not sure about liver, ask for the sausage version first.
Fish and seafood by the harbor
The sea is the main reason to eat well in Alexandria. Restaurants near the harbor serve grilled fish, fried calamari, shrimp and seafood rice. Fish is often chosen from a display and weighed, then cooked to order.
Seafood rice, a spiced rice dish with fish and shrimp, is a good option for travelers who find whole fish a lot of work. The guide can help you choose.
- Ful and ta'ameya – everyday breakfast and snack
- Liver and sausage sandwiches – spiced street food
- Grilled fish and seafood rice – harbor restaurants
- Rice pudding and ice cream – café dessert
- Tea and coffee – traditional cafés
Rice pudding, coffee and old cafés
End with a dessert. Rice pudding, called roz bel laban, is served cold in small bowls. Ice cream is also popular, and many old cafés make their own. Coffee comes strong, in a small cup.
Sit for a while. The old cafés of Alexandria are part of the city's character, and sitting in one is as much a part of the meal as the food.
Doing it with a guide
Our food walk is a private four-hour evening tour in central Alexandria. It begins at five and covers five or more stops, finishing on the Corniche. Your guide orders for you, explains each dish and takes you through the Manshiya market streets on the way.
A walk like this answers the questions most first-time visitors have: what to order, how it is eaten and which places are worth the wait.
Eating tips for visitors
Egyptian meals are social and unhurried. Bread arrives with almost everything, and sharing dishes is normal. Do not worry about ordering the right amount. Your guide can tell you how much is enough, and it is better to order a little and add more.
Spice is usually mild, but ask if you are sensitive. Fried food is common, and so are fresh salads. If you want to be cautious, stick to cooked dishes and bottled water, and wash your hands before eating at a stall.
Tipping is customary in restaurants. Small notes are handy for café staff and for street vendors who go out of their way to help.
If you only have time for one thing, make it the fish. A simple plate of grilled fish with bread and salad, eaten near the water, is as much a part of Alexandria as the library or the citadel.
Plan with us
What to eat in Alexandria
Ful, falafel, liver sandwiches, grilled fish, seafood rice and rice pudding: the dishes that define eating in Alexandria and where they fit.